Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2008

Viel Spaß an Silvester

I dropped Savannah off at the airport this morning. She should be somewhere over the Atlantic right now.



I estimate that having her in Berlin for Christmas was approximately the most incredibly super awesome thing ever. Ceteris paribus, of course.

Sharing Berlin with her has changed my perception of this place in ways I haven't quite sorted out yet. I'll blog it when it comes.

Until then, enjoy your Silvester and try at all costs to avoid making learning a new language one of your new year's resolutions. In fact, instead of learning a new language, you should resolve to learn Braille instead. Weird idea, right? But you could read in the dark! Enough said.

Sonntag, 28. Dezember 2008

Podcast!



Savannah and I have uploaded another podcast. This time we talk about Christmas, sightseeing in Berlin, and an uninvited lesson on train etiquette.

Also, check out the 200+ photos we have of Savannah's visit.


Mittwoch, 24. Dezember 2008

Christmas Eve Podcast



Enjoy my latest podcast with a very special guest. Merry Heiligabend!

Sightseeing with Savannah

Much to my delight, Savannah arrived on Monday after an exhausting trip halfway across the globe. Yesterday we saw all the sights in downtown Berlin.

I haven't gotten a chance to write any captions yet but you can see the pictures here.

Merry Christmas Eve!

Sonntag, 21. Dezember 2008

Are You Sick of Christmas Yet?

If not, take a look at some photos of the Gendarmenmarkt and Charlottenburg Christmas markets that I took this week. Here's a preview.

Gendarmenmarkt


Gendarmenmarkt is in the middle of Berlin, just off Unter den Linden (the Champs Elysee of Berlin). It's a market between two big churches.

Charlottenburg


Charlottenburg is in the western part of Berlin and it is where there's a big old castle. Well, by "old" I mean reconstructed, like everything in Berlin besides the Gedächtnis Kirche.

Freitag, 19. Dezember 2008

The Love for Three Oranges

Here's a clip from the opera I went to last night, (I didn't take it, I found it on YouTube), Prokofiev's "The Love for Three Oranges" at the Comic Opera.

It was fun and fantastical and very confusing. I have no idea who the guy in the spoon is, or who anyone else is or what happened for that matter. At any rate it helped wash the taste of the Mozartpocalypse out of my mouth. Or eyes. Or brain. Or whatever. You get it.

Mittwoch, 17. Dezember 2008

Deutsch-slapped! Second Installment

My friend Bruce and I got Deutsch-slapped yesterday afternoon taking pictures at the holocaust memorial.

Granted, we were not exactly being somber and reflective. My excuse is that Bruce (who studies "visual culture" in Sweden) had just reassured me that he took a class in which they learned about this particular memorial and how it was designed for people to be able to play there. I *know* it doesn't sound plausible but who am I to argue with the Swedish education system?

There are men whose job it is (of course) to stand by the holocaust memorial and tell people not to have fun. "No jumping! This is a holocaust memorial!"

Deutsch-slapped!

If one really is supposed to play at the holocaust memorial (I know, I can't believe I believed that) then they shouldn't have put it in Berlin, where playing, even where it is not strictly verboten, is still regarded with suspicion.

And then last night I met Halley and her brother, Trey, at Palm Beach, an absurd little bar where the floor is covered in sand, the heat is jacked up to 85 degrees, and "Cocktail Happy Hour" starts at 6 pm and ends at 5 am.

Shortly after the waitress brought our drinks, I was telling them about getting Deutsch-slapped earlier that day, when the waitress showed up with another drink for Halley. The waitress left both full drinks in front of her and explained very politely that Halley had accidentally ordered both of these drinks, each from a different waitress (she thought they were the same woman) and so she must pay for them. "You must only order your drink once. Do you understand?"

Deutsch-slapped!

And this morning as I was jaywalking across a silent street, an old woman with a walker yelled something (I know not what) at me from across the street. I don't think she was telling me to be careful.

Deutsch-slapped!

Dienstag, 16. Dezember 2008

DEUTSCH-SLAPPED

Guten Tag Herr Phillips,

vielen Dank für Ihren Auftrag. Wir freuen uns über Ihr Interesse für o2 DSL.

Zu unserem Bedauern müssen wir Ihnen mitteilen, dass wir diesen Auftrag aus internen Gründen nicht weiter bearbeiten können. Wir hoffen auf Ihr Verständnis und verbleiben

mit freundlichen Grüßen


Ihr o2 Team

************************

Good day Mr Phillips,

many thanks for your application. We are pleased by your interest in o2 DSL.

Regrettably, we must share with you that we can no longer work on your application due to internal reasons. We hope you understand and remain

with friendly greetings

your o2 Team.

*************

Understand? What am I supposed to understand exactly?

So German. So formal. So mystifying.

This reminds me of a word my friend Halley uses. When a German tells you you're doing the wrong thing, that something you thought was harmless is verboten, guess what? You just got Deutsch-slapped.

Montag, 15. Dezember 2008

Podcast

Today I've got a most ramble-acious podcast for you about who-knows-what. You'll love it like you always do.

And even though I went to the Reichstag on Friday, I forgot my camera. So no panoramic photos of Berlin. Instead, here is a picture of a dead crow.

Freitag, 12. Dezember 2008

German Word(s) of the Week

Das Gammelfleischparty (GAH muhll flysh PAHtee)

Savannah told me about this wonderful word, which was just voted "youth word of the year" by one of the big German dictionary publishers.

Like most German words, Gammelfleischparty is compound. 'Party', you know. 'Fleisch' means meat. 'Gammelig' means old, rotten, or corrupted. Put it all together and it literally translates 'rotten meat party'.

Figuratively, of course, it means a party consisting mostly of people over 30. Yeah. You heard me. Over 30.

If your German's decent you can find the rest of the candidates here.

The word that got second place this year is Bildschirmbräune, or 'computer screen tan', which refers to the pallor of a computer nerd. In Germany a tanning salon is a Bräunungstudio, literally, a 'browning studio'.

I also like number three, unterhopft, literally, 'under-hopped'. That's what you are when you're not drunk enough and you need more beer.

Germany, sometimes I love you.

Donnerstag, 11. Dezember 2008

Christmas Markets and Parties

Here are a couple pics from the Christmas market in Potsdam, a suburb of Berlin. It was waaaaay too charming.




I also went out more than a person should this weekend. But on Monday I had seven new facebook friends, so I guess it served a purpose. And I got to go to a 20's-themed party, which is something I've always dreamed of. Not everyone was as good of a sport about it as Halley and I were though.



Oh, and here's the Radio Tower in Charlottenburg that I mentioned in my last podcast.

Mittwoch, 10. Dezember 2008

Dienstag, 9. Dezember 2008

What is an American?

Ever since S asked me whether I was thankful to be an American, I've been trying to figure out what that means.

I still don't know. But it's fun to probe.

Like most cultural classifications, being an American seems to be a vague property. That makes it unlike being an American citizen, which is pretty cut and dried. I mean, supposing Charo has citizenship by now, whatever she doesn't have is what being an American is in the sense I mean it.

One thing that has nothing to do with being an American is race. It's not like that in Berlin, where it seems to me that national identity is thought of as more than just a matter of culture, language and citizenship. All black people are African. People with Turkish parents are Turkish, even if they've spent their whole lives in Berlin.

Can one become an American by choice, or is it just something that happens to one?
I think the answer is yes, but if so it's a matter of acquiring a second nature, not just doing or saying a certain thing. One cannot just become an American, but one may make choices that lead one to become an American.

Can one stop being an American? If so, can one do so by choice?
I don't think so. Or, at least, once one is an American it would be very hard to stop being one. John Walker Lindh, for example, was and is an American.

Is it easier for some people to become American?
Yes. Canadians, for example.

Is it harder for some people to become Americans?
Yes. Canadians, for example.

What's the fastest way to seem like an American?
Use the word 'ain't'.

More on this theme later.

Montag, 8. Dezember 2008

Monday Podcast

Back on schedule, this week I bust some myths about Berlin.

Freitag, 5. Dezember 2008

Burgeramt/Frühstücksklub



These fabulous people eating gross food are: Catherine, Jill, Jason, and Halley.

Donnerstag, 4. Dezember 2008

Special Thursday Podcast

That's right, liebe Leute, there's a new podcast in town, and it's not even your Weihnachtsgeschenk!

This time I muse, opine, and cavil about the "best burger place in Berlin" and other assorted delights.

Dienstag, 2. Dezember 2008

German Word of the Week

schlagfertig

Schlagfertig (SCHLOCK fair tikh) literally means "blow-ready", as in, ready to trade blows. It is an adjective describing someone who is quick-witted.

Incidentally, mit Schlag is one way to order your mocha or hot chocolate. It comes with a "hit" of "beaten" (whipped) cream, aka Schlagsahne. And if you want some liquor in it, order it mit Schuss, "with a shot".

Montag, 1. Dezember 2008

Abortive Panorama Bar Visit

Herr Professor Dr. Phillips has no new podcast for you today, due to the fact that he was outside Panorama Bar at 4 am on Saturday taking this picture.



He didn't actually make it inside, because waiting in line for half an hour in the sub-zero temperatures removed his will to dance. And getting home at 6 am removed his will to podcast the next day.

Not to worry: as a Berlin institution, this particular three-story techno warehouse in the former east will probably still be there the next time he is seized by such an urge.

Donnerstag, 27. November 2008

Dankbarkeit

I am thankful...

that abusing coffee doesn't cause a hangover

that listening to an iPod doesn't cause cancer

that cursing is not illegal

that people can't hear what I'm thinking

for the Käseteller at the FU

that I can effortlessly summon the English words for effortlessness, summoning, and pinky toe

that I have reached 28 without falling apart, breaking down, freaking out, or screwing up (too much)

that no one whose services I currently need is on strike

for navy blue

for the collared shirt, the v-neck sweater, the sport coat, and jeans

for martinis

for autonomy

for taste

that we all get to be young for a while

that ignorance, provincialism, and naivete are all curable

for second nature

that cosmopolitanism is not the same as multiculturalism

for the stability of platonic relationships

that opinions, insofar as they diverge from the truth, are inconsequential

that I was born in New York

that I live in Berlin

Und ich bin auch dankbar, dass ich manchmal ein bisschen Deustch sprechen kann!

Herzlichen Glückwunsch zum Thanksgiving

Mittwoch, 26. November 2008

German Word of the Week

Schnapszahl (SHNAHPS tsahl)

Oh, the fascinating things one learns watching German kid's shows.

In my last podcast I promised you another Schnaps-based German word, and this time it's Schnapszahl.

According to the LEO online German dictionary, the English translation of Schnapszahl is "a multidigit number with all digits identical". Schnapszahl literaly means "Schnaps number".

So 11 is a Schnapszahl. So are 666 and 9.99.

What makes a number a Schnapszahl? The fact that when you drink too much Schnaps you tend to see double.

American kids are missing out on a lot having to grow up watching Mr. Roger's Neighborhood.

Dienstag, 25. November 2008

Staabi

So it turns out the Staabi is, like, not a public library. It's more like a national archive. Which explains a lot, and makes me have to take back most of what I said in yesterday's podcast.

But this really is sauerkraut juice.



Anyway, see more pictures of how cool it is inside the Staabi and other Berlin sights (and sites) in my latest Picasa album.



Sonntag, 23. November 2008

New Podcast

It's always too early for Christmas. I effortlessly remain entzaubert despite the quaint Weihnachtsmärkte breaking out all over Berlin. Oh, and a trip to the "Staabi" gives the lie to German socialism.

Donnerstag, 20. November 2008

German Word of the Week

"ACHTUNG: SCHWARZFAHRER"

So read a sign on the side of a bus I saw today. What a great word.

Schwarzfahrer literally means black rider; it is used to refer to a person who rides the train or bus without a ticket.

It's also the subject and title of this clever short film by Pepe Danquart that is set in Berlin and won the Oscar in 1993 for best short film.

The film, I cannot stop myself from adding, only very mildly exaggerates the behavior I discussed yesterday of middle-aged Berlin women on public transportation.

Mittwoch, 19. November 2008

How To Tell If You're German

Rachel sent me a link to a page called "How to tell if you're German". I'd recommend it if you're interested in getting a better idea of the zeitgeist in Deutschland. I can confirm that a lot of the things on the list are true about Berliners, but I have never been outside Berlin, so I can't say if they're true of Germans more generally.

The first item on the list is well chosen. If you're German, "you think it's you're [sic] right to say your opinion. You may also think that others have the same right".

I say it's well chosen because, although you may know that ping-pong, snooker, and Fussball are popular sports in Germany, you may not be aware of the other national pastime, which is telling people their business.

I've mentioned before that Berliners are aware at all times of what you're supposed to be doing, and they have no scruples about telling you if you're not doing it. This sport is particularly popular among the middle-aged, and middle-aged women are absolutely wild about it.

This morning, for instance, I got on the train and started reading a magazine. Before the train had even started, a middle-aged woman got up from her section three seats away and stood in front of me. After a few seconds, when I was starting to get annoyed, I looked up. She was looking straight at me.

I pulled out one earbud. I only caught two words, one German and one English. The German one was leise, which means soft or softly, volume-wise. The other word she used was 'slowly', which I'm assuming you know. I had no idea what she was talking about or why she was interrupting my reading.

Upon reflection it became clear that she was confused about the difference between the words 'softly' and 'slowly'. She thought the English word for leise was 'slowly', when in fact it's 'softly'.

After observing her gestures, I simply asked, "Die Musik?" That seemed to satisfy her because she walked back to her seat, where she was clearly entrenched in a most delicate operation that required complete silence. On a public train.

Still puzzled and annoyed, trying to understand what made this woman think she had the right to demand that I turn down my earbuds from three seats away on the morning train, I arrived at the FU Mensa where I tried to buy some food.

I've already told you about the silly procedures that require standing in line for a card, standing in line to fill the card, standing in line to pick your food, and standing in line to pay for your food with your card. But there's another procedure, that you are supposed to show your student ID when you pay for your food with your card.

I knew that. But what I learned today is that there is a proper way to fold and display your ID. I was doing it the improper way. See, not only must the middle-aged lady who sits on her Arsch all afternoon taking people's money have to see that you have a student ID, she must also see the date on the ID.

I'm not going to get into why there needs to be a special way of folding the ID, it has to do with the placement of the sticker that functions as a transit pass. All you need to know is that I was given a lesson on ID folding by the aforementioned Frau before she'd let me buy my lunch.

I remember when I told a Polish girl I met at one of the International Club's coffee hours that I thought it was ridiculous how they wouldn't let you bring a bag into the library, and she was nonplussed. But they do let you bring in a bag, she said, as long as it's one of the transparent cellophane bags that you can only buy from them. What's the problem?

The fact that she missed the point suggests that Poland has something in common with Germany that neither of them shares with the US. An American is not grateful for being allowed to do things in a particular manner. We want to be able to do things however the hell we damn well please, as long as it doesn't directly hamper anybody else's ability to do likewise. And we think it's rude to tell other people how to behave, unless those people are children. Your own children.

Americans fervently believe everyone's got a right to her opinion, but it is unbecoming for her to have too many opinions about other people's business. And if she does, she should look down on them secretly and with covert self-righteousness, not openly and with a blatant air of authority and entitlement.

So if there are any Berliners listening, especially of the middle-aged female persuasion, hear my feeble plea: Please don't tell me my business. And please, please don't try to speak English to me unless you actually speak English. It's presumptuous and it makes you look foolish, not exclusively but especially when you're trying to tell me my business.

Dienstag, 18. November 2008

Weihnachstmarkt

Just like in the US, Christmas in Germany starts November 1st and ends in January.

So as of right now, you can go ice skating and tubing (!) in Potsdamer Platz and buy Glühwein and Grog (I haven't tried it yet) in fancy little mugs.





It also means you can buy Festbier, such as Luckenwalder's lecker Weihnachtstraum (Christmas Dream). (See my online beer gallery for that and many more new varieties. I'm becoming a big fan of something called "Würzig" beer).

Find a few more photos from last week, including more from around Potsdamer Platz, in my photo gallery.

Montag, 17. November 2008

Podcast 6

Get a hot cup of chocolate, nestle down in a cozy chair, and enjoy my latest fireside radio chat.

Donnerstag, 13. November 2008

Das Schloss

Last Saturday I went shopping at a mall in Steglitz called Das Schloss, The Castle.





I stopped and paid 4 euros for a grande caramel macchiato. It felt just like home!



You can see more pictures in my online Web album for Nov. 1-8.

That's where I took the following video. They projected fish onto the ceiling and there was a guy playing a gong.

Montag, 10. November 2008

Entzaubert Podcast 5

Look, no one's going to hire me as the ambassador to Germany, so I might as well tell it like it is.

Freitag, 7. November 2008

DIE FANTASTISCHEN VIER - MFG


Want some help learning your German alphabet? Listen to this song while reading the lyrics.

You will, no doubt, recognize only a few of the acronyms, because most of them are unique to Germany.

This song is amusing because the German love for bureaucracy is matched only by their love for two other things: sausage and acronyms.

Dienstag, 4. November 2008

Mozartpocalypse

By the time the cavemen tried to rape a woman at the U-Bahn station, I was no longer paying much attention.

You see, I thought I was going to see a musical performance of Mozart's Requiem at the Comic Opera on Saturday night. But thanks to a delightful artistic fad called Regietheater, "Director Theater", what I got for my money was actually a theatrical performance that used Mozart's Requiem as background noise.

The idea behind Director Theater seems to be that since everything old-fashioned is dead, irrelevant, insignificant, and useless, the only way to find artistic value in it is by cannibalizing it and using its parts to add an air of respectability to bad plays.

If you're interested in the phenomenon, for which the Comic Opera in Berlin seems to be a sort of ground zero, you can read about it here.

I've also included a video promo for the performance below. Keep your eyes out for the above-mentioned cavemen, the slumber party in the slaughterhouse, the plague comes to the nail salon, death as an old man in a helmet, cape, and Underoos, the angels performing surgery on a man in the chapel, and the mass suicide on Mt. Sinai.

Crocs Cell Phone Shoes



As my friend Elizabeth said, "That is just wrong on so many levels."

Montag, 3. November 2008

Leberkäse

"Liver Cheese" isn't what it sounds like. But it's not particularly good either.


New Podcast

I'm going to try to start posting podcasts every Monday.

Today, the gloves come off about German food, the French, and the metric system.

Something's a little weird about the sound quality this time; I hope it's not too distracting.

Mayonnaise

As most of us learned from John Travolta in Pulp Fiction, in Amsterdam they put mayonnaise on french fries.

Evidently, in Berlin they do it too!



For the record, I'm a fan.

Freitag, 31. Oktober 2008

Crash!

Last night I went with my friend Hally to a meeting of the International club. It was in Kreuzberg, yet another one of the super-hip areas in Berlin, at a place called Crash!





There I made an ass of myself speaking bad German and failing to control my "dome sweat".

Speaking a foreign language is like playing a board game in which the rules are so complex that you can never make a *single* move without violating them and no one wins in the end.

Speaking a foreign language is like trying to run underwater.

Speaking a foreign language is like being the person who is so uncoordinated that he is always picked last for dodgeball and then being expected to do a gymnastics floor routine at the Olympics.

Speaking a foreign language is like going to the drug store for fifteen embarrassing cures and having the cashier do a price check on each one of them.

Speaking a foreign language is like failing a sobriety test.

Speaking a foreign language is like being retarded, except that you know you're retarded.

Speaking a foreign language is like being asked at the last minute to teach a class on quantum physics when all you know about physics is what you learned from watching Nova.

Speaking a foreign language is like when you're walking down the street and someone else is coming towards you and when you try to avoid them, you both move in the same direction so you're still on a collision course, then you both switch to the opposite side, then you both switch back, then finally you both almost bump into each other. It's like that process sustained for weeks.

Oh, and living in a foreign country is like it would be if you woke up one day and all the holidays you care about, including birthdays, didn't exist anymore. And instead of those holidays, there were holidays that deliberately excluded you.

Happy Halloween!

Dienstag, 28. Oktober 2008

Festival of Lights



For the past two weeks Berlin has been putting on its “Festival of Lights” (that’s what the Germans call it). They’ve been projecting the slogan “be Berlin” on the Brandenburg Gate. And really, what could be more Berlin than an English slogan?

Without a tripod it’s really hard to capture night photos, so I only got a few.











There was also an event inside the I.M. Pei-designed German History Museum of which I got a couple of photos.



Montag, 27. Oktober 2008

Deutschland ist Schön

I recorded a new podcast yesterday about the honor system, public transportation, and speaking German. It's got some fun music clips too.

Terror Cell

I know that title is going to get my blog many visits by the lovely people in the Department of Homeland Security, but it fits, so I’m using it.

You see on Saturday night my friend Elizabeth and I went to this area called Neuköln that was described to us in all seriousness as a “terror cell”. That’s where I took a picture of this arsenal.



I suppose the apparent danger of the trip would have bothered me a lot more if I weren’t dazzled by the prospect of the lecker authentic Turkish food to be found in the nucleus of this terror cell.

Of course my tension was relieved by the genuinely reassuring name of the street on which we sought our restaurant:



We ended up eating at the most authentic looking restaurant we could find, an Egyptian place called Café Barbar Aga.



I didn’t take pictures of the rugs and hookah-smoking men inside because I didn’t want anyone to crash a plane into me. But I did manage to capture this imageless video from inside my coat of the evening’s live entertainment.



Is it just me or does he sound like he’s singing backwards?

It couldn’t have been a very orthodox place, though, because the big screen TV in the corner was playing American music videos.

Need I say how much I thoroughly enjoyed eating Egyptian food in Berlin under the glow of the Dixie Chicks?

Freitag, 24. Oktober 2008

Laptop Lock!

So, if you've seen the pictures of the FU Philological library, you know it's a pretty cool place to study.



Unfortunately, due to one of the many weird regulations that form the warp and woof of Berlin life, one can bring neither a coat nor a bag into the library.

Well, that's not true. One can bring a bag made of transparent plastic into the library. Evidently it's a bigger priority to make sure no one steals the precious books than it is to make sure the library is a quiet place for reflection and contemplation. Because cellophane is not quiet.

One of the many problems with this policy of treating every student like a potential book-thief and/or copyright violator is that when all the lockers are used up, one cannot go into the library, even if one just wants to grab a book or sit in one of the many available places to use one's laptop.

But what really bothers me is that, once inside the library, I cannot go anywhere without carrying my laptop in my arms.



As everyone knows, the more time something spends in your hands, the more likely you are to drop it. Unfortunately, as everyone who has ever left all his personal belongings in an unlocked bus station locker in Portland, Oregon knows, the more time something spends out of your hands, the more likely it is to be stolen.

But that is not a problem for me any longer, because this morning I got up and found in my mailbox a laptop lock!



No more carrying around my laptop while I go look for a book or refill my water bottle! Thanks, Dad! I was hoping adding a link to my Amazon Wish List would pay off!

Donnerstag, 23. Oktober 2008

Kaiser Wilhelm's Revenge

You may have noticed on my Twitter status that I've been obsessed with food for the last three days. That's because I've been ravenously hungry.

At first I thought that German Shepherd had turned me into a werewolf. But now I'm starting to think I gave myself food poisoning.

The thing is, my refrigerator is tiny. So when I took a pot of hot bockwurst stew off the stove and put it directly into the fridge, I think I spoiled my prosciutto. At least it tasted funny. Oh, and the hamburger meat I had in the fridge turned gray. I threw that out.

Anyway, without giving you a full medical report, I've been both exhausted and famished for three days. I'm getting better though.

Oh, and did I mention already that on Friday I met a couple more ex-pats and we had fun in Prenzlauer Berg? I've posted the pictures.

That's the first time I've been in one of the many ultra-hip parts of Berlin and it was cool. I hope it will suffice to indicate what a good time I had to say I didn't get home until 5 am.

bis gleich!

Package Station

I've spent a lot of time complaining about Berlin. Here's something cool.

It's called a Packstation.



I know it looks likes like a combination of a phone booth and an ATM, but it's really an automated package repository.

If you're not home to pick up your package, Deutsche Post (which, as far as I can tell, is run by DHL) will put a lovely envelope in your mailbox.



When you have the time, day or night, you may take this envelope to the local grocery store, which is where I found the above package station.

Scan the enclosed bar code at the window.



Then, use your finger to sign the touch screen. Pay no attention to the bad English instructions that tell you to "subscribe with your finger".



"Subscribe" is a transliteration of the German word unterschreiben, which means "sign".

Then one of these little gray windows will open...



...and boom! there's your package.



What's so great about the package station is that you don't have to worry about anyone "going postal" on you, and the thing is never closed. Efficient and convenient. Pay attention, America.